Sportster Motor Mount Tricks and other goodies . . .

Usually my system is . . . have the lower-end together with cylinders on, then set it in the frame.  This time I left off the cylinders, assembled pistons (so I could better see the spiral keepers were seated).  The motor is lighter and easier to handle.  Big Noot showed me a little trick . . . to snug up the back bolts pretty well, then pry up on the motor a bit (underneath between lower frame and the bottom of the cases) before you snug up the front bolts.  This takes a little stress off the back aluminum mount . . . and it may help keep from cracking it (like they can do) on the left, top side.  Go over all the bolts again - and you've done your best.
If you ever find the front of the engine "off" a bit with the frame, try loosening the bolts(on top) where the mount bolts to the cases behind the back jug.  Kinda settle it into place with no binding, and tighten all your bolts again.  All this thinking might lead to a smoother ride, less cracks, less breakage . . . less aspirin.
Vintage MC Pistons with 10.5:1 compression ratio, offset wrist pins, set up at .0045 clearance
I also changed my cams around - I'll try P Intakes and PB Exhaust.  I want to try and build some
torque.  When checking the breather timing, I noticed it wasn't opening until like 2" ATDC and was still open "on the way up"  That's bad.  The breather hole was lined-right-up with the notch.  Thank You Harley Davidson !  We moved it a tooth, and now I open much sooner and she closes "right at the bottom."  If you know what I'm talkin' about??? More updates later . . .

Save Fuel . . .

Ride with a friend . . .

Valves next to the pistons . . .

Ironheads Forever

This guy on the (bottom photo) has just got the world by the nuts . . . His ironhead is the set of wheels that does it for him . . . a cool cat with style, performance - a bad ass scoot. I like the yellow, corroded cylinders, KR rigid loop, CH oil tank, '70 primary(so it's probably still a 900) and the springer.  Once you ride an ironhead for an entire Summer, everywhere . . . you'll want at least ONE  - forever & ever.

KHK Racer

 . . . just add wheels.

The best things in life . . .

. . . are made from iron, steel & aluminum.

Ram it in there . . .

Flat tops are for wimps . . .

Ported, Check Overlap & Spring Height

Get your head together . .

Pete's Pan

 . . . it is pretty damn cool.  Pete does an awesome job on all his builds.  Paint by Michael.  I like to go swimming with Michael.  I like giving Pete bro hugs.  Nice to see you too Hans . . .

All Steel and All Real

 

My friend Jeremy caught a serious hot-rod bug from his dad & grand-dad, and he keeps the tradition alive with all steel Fords & Chevys.  Straight axles, narrow slots . . . and the best part - he knows all the history of his rides and takes that tradition seriously.  Hell, the stories are the best part anyway !  (I know he drives that '57 year round)   See ya "sooner" next time and a rain check on the cold one . . . Respectfully, -Noot Jr.

1975 AMF'r

XLH is now a rolling chassis.  All stock is cock.  Paint by The Rattler . . . shiny & groovy.
Goodyear All-Trac for spittin' dirt . . . 

Beston Grips

About 3 years ago at Davenport,
I bought some NOS Vintage 1" Beston Grips from a Brit who talked funny.  The most I could understand is that the 1" size wasn't popular in the U.K.  "Mate, if yer bars vibrate - these would be ace . . . I wouldn't "nick" you on this haggle ?  Somthin' like that . . .

Swirl Polishing Advantages

Experienced racing engine builders say that swirl polishing the backside of valve heads relieves stress and lowers the chance of valve failure.  They would probably know.  Racers know the most since they have tested their methods, failed many times . . . and usually know what works and what doesn't work.  They spent the money, and us "hot street riders" can reap the benefits of their findings.  That gray line is the lapped valve seat.  Usually intake valves can have a narrower seat width (to get the fuel and air in a bit faster).  Exhaust valves like a wider seat width . . . Why?  The engineers say, since exhaust valves run hotter, the time the valve is closed (touching the seat of the head) all that heat can be transferred from the valve itself, back to the cylinder head - creating a "cooler running" exhaust valve - ensuring a longer life of the valve.  That wide seat carries away the heat.  Swirl polishing improves air flow, and I know the carbon doesn't stick as easy either . . . in my experiences taking apart cylinder heads.

Busy . . and Camera needs batteries . . .

I've been very very busy . . .

Honed lifter blocks (4 ea)

Bored & Honed set of cylinders

Bead blasted & washed cylinder heads

Bought a tire from Universal
Fitted the Orange tank & fender !

Ground (22 ea) valves (yes I did)

Drilled & replaced (4 ea) cam rollers

Honed a XL rod set

Replaced shifter shaft bushing

Replaced kicker shaft bushing

Scraped gaskets
Freshed up my magneto

Bought spokes from Buchannan's

Raked the entire backyard and

took the leaves/sticks to landfill

Took out the trash

Cleaned the litter box

Lifted weights and walked my

route everyday . . .

Line lapped a pinion race
 Trued my '61CH flywheel assembly . . .

Set up bore gauges and measured

about (6)different races
Honed knuckle valve guides

Pressed in (2) more bushings

Assembled tappet blocks in a

1949 panhead motor . . .

Went to bowling alley for an IPA and a Comet Burger !

 It's important to stay busy.  I'm a big advocate for "movement" and to do things, and study new things.  Keeping your mind moving and sharp.  Doing things for people - giving your best and doing some volunteer work of some type.  It's a great feeling for me to see my friends face when they pick up their stuff and notice I've done extra, made it the best I could - then I hear later how good it runs and how much fun they are having . . . it helps them "keep moving" too.

Magneto Tech

I like to take my magnetos into a dark closet(nothing kinky).  You can spin the gear and easily see if spark jumps the springs, and how much spark arcs at the points.  If I get too much arc at the points, I change the condenser first, then clean and file points, then clean everything, change points, etc.  Eventually, I will have no arc at the points - just a good snap at the coil springs.  Magneto points last about 10 times longer than distributor points.  This set has been in my '61CH for over 20 years.  Magnetos are easy on point faces.  The points set just like any set of points(but with a tighter .015 gap) I like the original FM Coils, but the aftermarket coils are ok too.  Make sure your coil ground screws are clean and tight.  Keep the inside of your magneto housing clean.  I remove the coil and clean off the surface of the rotor every few years.  Wipe it out with electrical cleaner and blow dry.  Simple maintenance.
I have 8 magnetos and they all work - and that's 8 batteries I don't need.  I built about all of them from separate parts here and there . . . I use original Fairbanks-Morse parts and Joe Hunt products too.  I like Joe Hunt since you can call and talk to a tech guy, get parts direct - and their stuff is decent quality.  I really like their billet top bearing plate.  If you get one, have them install the top bearing for you.  This plate has a stronger boss and better screws for fastening the condenser, points, etc.  They have good plug wires.  I use Morris Magneto parts too.  The Morris M5 is a great system for shovelheads.  Dave at Morris is always very helpful - and he knows more about magnetos than anybody I know.  Don't let a naysayer stop you from running a magneto on your old bike - once you get it going, and have a basic understanding of how they work, you'll be very happy with one, or two, or . . .

K & K&N & Kung Fu

Celestial Markings

In going through the '61CH motor . . . I noticed these really weird lines in one cylinder.  I've never seen anything quite like this before.  They resemble rays-of-light.  The bore is straight, piston is slightly scored, but this is just weird.  It's a signal, a sign, a language that an engine builder needs to understand.  It probably has something to do with distortion.  I never babied this thing - so it's possible it got a bit hot a time or two . since gettin' your CH "hot" is fun you know . . . Like Competition Hot !

1975 XLH Restoration

My dad purchased a ratted out Sportster at an auction last year . . . and in typical "Noots" style it's being restored (way-over-budget) to our patented 'original custom' condition.  A clean AMF'r . . .

Harley XL Tappet Block Remover

1960 XLH

George Ratliffe - A good wrench and racer.

Struts & XLR Pipes

Bob Spina Nomination

Ed Roth, Pete & Jake . . . & Spina

Just before they hit the road (with California Kid) to OK City

 Tom Kelly, Larry Watson & Bob Spina

Nominate Bob Spina and Tom Kelly for Starbird's Hall of Fame Museum in Oklahoma.  A "Lifetime Achievement" Award for all their work and contributions to the world of custom paint.  Over 50 years of service.  True innovators.

25 Years of Carbon

 

25 years since my CH has been apart.  It's just time to check wear, clearances . . . so far, it's been carbon deposits and clean oil.

Yost Power Tube: S&S Super E

Anyone ever use one of these?

7:00am - Iowa - Gas & Grease

Frosty, wet and cold, slippery concrete, cold fog . . . and I'm out cleaning an ironhead hub with gasoline . . .
Now that's fucking commitment.

Where There's a Whip There's a Way . . .

I've been in the crowd at Faster Pussycat so many times - and each concert was different.  In the land of metal, glam, screamin' guitars and vocals . . . this is one of my all-time faves. 

Jeff Wright's Bike

 Caption:

"Honey, don't forget . . .regular Camels and a Trop-A-Rocka . . . 

and no wheelies ! "

This is Jeff's bike (he told me this is "his bike" and he's keeping it).  Every guy has a bike they should keep, even if you're not sentimental towards such things.  I was excited(and nervous) when he asked me to rebuild the motor.  This engine was originally in the "Red Bike."  I built the transmission too (I guess it leaks, but the next time he pulls it, I'll get it fixed (or slowed down) I mean, even H-D says "seepage" is normal.  In case you didn't know, this motor is a unique one.  It's one of the few manufactured 74 cubic inch with the big-base cylinders.(like 80" cylinders)  I talked to Dave at Morris Magneto and he instructed me to run the Andrews BH grind cam with his M5 Magneto.  I timed it off the back cylinder(as instructed) and I assume it starts and runs good.  Jeff brought me 2 transmissions, and said to "build one good one" out of the two.  If I remember correctly, one tranny had mostly Andrews gears (with FX main drive gear ratio = higher 1st gear for lighter weight motorcycles) but the case itself was in poor condition.  The other trans had a heavy-duty case, with chessy gears.  So, we built one with all the goodies.  I really like this photo by Anna (see COC website for the link to her) . . . and it's a really neat bike - and I plan on this summer racing around Des Moines with Jeff - Bar to Bar (at least once).  Gotta Love it . . .