Jarno Saarinen

Many racing experts rate Saarinen as the fastest 250cc motorcycle racer - ever.  A native of Finland, his style was smooth and calculated.  He raced in the most dangerous era of GP.  The "car circuits" were not set up to address the safety of a motorcycle racer. 




Jarno Saarinen had a total of 15 Grand Prix victories on 250cc, 350cc and 500cc machines.
He won the 1972 250cc GP Championship
He was killed at age 27 racing in Monza, Italy when Renzo Pasolini's engine seized, hitting a barrier and the motorcycle was throw back onto the race track - striking Saarinen . . . (see Wiki)

Old Dudes/Bad Knees = Bump Starters


There are many different versions, and many different ways to get the job done.  These examples are lightweight, easily moved and stored - and they work.  However, expensive.
Above:
This model looks good !
Back up, start the bike, ride off . . .
_______________________________________________________________________
If you're old-school - Here's the method you like best, but it takes one guy on the bike and one guy in the car or truck.  You have to work together on this one - and a lot of shit can happen, accidents can happen . . but it gets the job done, and will start the most stubborn, flooded,
high compression and/or mis-timed machines !
 . . . now if you're way way old school and you know somebody with a salvage yard - Go get yourself a car starter/solonoid, weld a socket on your sprocket shaft, get a car battery and a kid's wagon - and you got yourself one of the best remote starting devices ever conceived !
 . . . and the grips off your Bridgestone.
If you're strong . . . ?  This might just work?


Bonsey 80

He's a charger . . .

Chris Tribbey - Cannonball Racer !

Chris (from Caledonia, WI)  has followed the Cannonball Run over the years as a spectator.  However in 2018, he'll be a participant.  Chris got inspired to ride from listening to Bill Rodencal talk of his own experiences on this coast to coast run.  Bottom Line:  "When Bill speaks, people listen !"  I sure do . . .
The Cannonball rips through Iowa (my neck of the woods)
on Friday - SEPTEMBER 14TH
with a stay in Spirit Lake, Iowa

Arthur and Clara

A first family of Harley-Davidson Motorcycles

Bead Blasting and Washing . . .

They sure look nice !  My weld guy likes 'em clean (for best results)
and who likes workin' on greasy parts anyway? 
1953 Model K engine cases

Stay in School








Design and Engineering . . .

Street Bike

. . . parked in the dirt.

Nut & Boltin' . . .

Check and double check.  Goin' over everything on my flat track bike just so I can make a few laps at Vintage Torquefest next weekend.  When you're not a pro, and you only ride a couple times a year like this . . . you need all equipment under you safe and solid.  I fixed the lower Timken cup in the frame(it was loose) and reset the front end bearings.
The tank got a bit more foam dampening underneath.  The lower mounts were readjusted.
Oil changed to Straight H-D 50 wt.  (I ran H-D 10-40 all winter for ice riding).  I'll unhook the return line and run the motorcycle to flush all the dark oil from the motor - once the oil turns clean again, you know it's purged of old oil.  Pipe guard keeps my leathers from burning . . .
New fuel lines.  I'll lube the air filter.  Dual feed supplies fuel from both sides of the Trackmaster tank.  Two petcocks - Don't forget to turn on the gas dummy !
The pipes are tight.  Axle nuts tight.  My trusty 16T trans sprocket installed - wheel adjusted - It's ready for a test.  I have a title and insurance for this bike, so it's up-the-street I go !
Forks have been stiffened.  Cables re-adjusted.   Lots of work for just a few laps . . . and it rains about every year(so it might not even happen) But strapping on a steel shoe, leathers, helmet, gloves . . . and going around on a dirt oval is fun.  Banked 3/8 Mile with clay, and a wall around the outside.  No hay bales.  Vintage bikes only (that's the best part) - Let's go play dirt-track racer ! 
This is the view I want to show those Triumphs this year -
Wishful thinking ?!?!?!

Spare Stuff . . .

I've collected for so many years - and recently sold a lot of my parts.  I remember buying a DC carburetor for $5 bucks, one for $10 bucks - with a reply of "What are you gonna do with that?"  Owned about 20 Sportster Buddy Seats - (but they never really took off).  Now I'm happy with just a few spares.  I stopped buying parts that don't wear out . . . instead I'm collecting clutch plates, tire tubes, bearings, pistons and rings. Next will be throttle cables, then more tires.  Chains and sprockets.  You get the drift . . . but, I still slip-off-the-wagon now and then.  SEE ABOVE PHOTO: Recently purchased Tillotson velocity stack and aluminum XLR fork tube caps !

Sleeping On The Job !

WE worked really hard last night.  Morty was helping as usual, and we got the K-Model clutch all clean again, and working properly.  We washed parts, and jammed on tunes while we worked.  It was almost 10:00pm, and I'm talking to Morty . . . then I look over and he's asleep !  It's difficult to find good help around here . . !

Leave Greatness Alone . . .



The Sportster lower-end.  It can handle the power with it's Timken design and strong flywheel configuration.  The weakness can be the small crankcase volume.  What to do with all that air?

900 Sportster

This one is almost ready to hit the street !
 ( free up some bench space too . . . )
1969 XLCH

FIT IT - Don't forget it . . .

Finally got this '48 lower buttoned up.  Before assembly, there's a million "checks" that need to be addressed before you get it all together.  Like aligning the new idler studs with the gear cover, checking cam clearances, renewing 1/4-24 threads, checking breather fit, checking flywheel endplay, do the crank pin nuts hit, any weird noises?  Turn off the radio and listen as you spin it over.  Do the case bolts fit properly?  I use old nuts for bolting and unbolting (then I use the new cadmium nuts for final assembly - so I don't garf 'em all up).  Cylinder studs installed to correct height.  Make sure you read the H-D manual and install the roller bearings and cages in the correct direction for the year engine.  Use the proper thrust washers, and install them in the correct location.  (Lot's of engines have this stuff screwed up)  I already fitted the pinion gear and oil pump gear (and lapped them for fitment) since they are usually way too tight) Fit these gears before you get it all assembled.  You really got to check this shit - it takes a lot of time, but it must be done. 

From . . . "The world of tomorrow..."

The DC Linkert carburetor looks funny without a float bowl spacer.

1965

Charging systems were a big deal in the 1960s.  When you had Lucas systems that maybe didn't always work, the rest were still 6 volt.  The new 12 volt systems were a big selling point.  Brighter lights, reliability and carefree electrical performance !  What going to make you buy that new Harley-Davidson????  The beautiful paint?  The hot rod cams and valves?  Or the new 12 volt electrical system? 

PS. What I really want is that cat's argyle sweater . . . and what are these hoods doin' skippin' football practice?  Anything to get the chics.

The "Bag"

That's how I refer to it.  That round, beer keg lookin' . . solid construction Nelson-Rigg black zippered bag.  It's flown off a couple times, but it never really hurt it.  It's got a rain jacket you can pull over it. During storms, it gets power washed from the rear wheel, but my shorts stay dry.  It has zippers on the ends to expand 3-4" more if needed.  It works.

Moto GP: 93

Marc Marquez won the GP race in Austin last weekend for the "umpteenth" time.  Valentino Rossi complained about the track surface being rough and dusty.  Marquez (above) won by a convincing margin.  Maybe some of the boys ought to strap on a steel shoe, and get some practice?  Everyone races the same track . . . sucks for some, while others shine.  The way it's always been.
 . .  and if you're out front, it ain't as dusty.


Billy Huber

Huber had a rather unorthodox racing style....but it worked for him.  He was voted "Most Popular Rider" by the racing community in 1946, and raced Harley-Davidsons most of his career.  Huber won multiple 100 Mile national events, and could be a real-pain-in-the-ass to the Indian Factory Team. 

That one day . . .

 . .  me and Anchor Moto rode side valves all over this darn town.
#wildwood park (way in the back)

Speed King

 In 1954 . . . Black is beautiful.

Cool Bike - Cool Boots

I don't know the situation (since there's lots o' pictures of women, with motorcycles, who don't really ride the bike they're photographed with)   However, I just have a feeling this is her Sportster . . . she owns it . . . it's registered in her name, and she rides the shit out of it? 
I'd like to tell her, "Hey, I really like your bike !"

The Winner's Circle

Team photos . . . you don't see them as much anymore for some reason?  Now, it's usually just the driver, maybe a flagman, and his car or bike.  There's plenty of podium photos.  If you've ever actually been a part of a race team - you know it takes many hands to be successful every week. 
This DRAGBIKE 4246 took a team effort - and some of the best-in-the-business lined up for this photo to be recognized.  Dan Baisley (3rd from left - most likely the rider)

PS. (I know 2nd from left is Ron Dickey from Axtell), then Baisley, then Fitzmaurice?, and maybe we could ask Jeff Wiley who the others are????  He'd know. 

TECH: How to Wrinkle Paint

The key to perfect wrinkle paint is "uniformity" - consistency.  If applied too heavy, it wrinkles and leaves lines, and the wrinkles in the paint are larger in places.  If applied too light(thin paint) it doesn't wrinkle at all, or appears rough.  Temperature of the part(and room temp) is important.  I've found about 60-70 degrees F works best.  It dries a bit slower, and your wrinkle paint job will be more consistent and uniform.  Application is very important.  You don't "recoat" wrinkle paint.  I give it a very light (stick coat) to give the surface some grip - let dry 4-5 mins., then apply a medium/heavy main coat of paint, careful to apply a uniform depth.  You don't want any runs !  I try to apply the paint on the surfaces of the part YOU SEE WHEN IT'S ON THE BIKE in the best way possible.  Cross your fingers. 

Now that the paint has wrinkled and is completely dry, I spray a flat (or semi flat) coat of black over the top to even out any shiny spots, or imperfections.  This is the step that really gives your black wrinkle job the professional appearance over wrinkle alone.  Highlight with chrome, polished or spun aluminum(as above) accessories for contrast.  Chrome socket-head screws with small OD stainless washers to mount the covers. 

PJ-1 Wrinkle Paint is the brand I prefer.  Problem is, it's expensive.  Plus, the tip likes to clog (once you get going, don't stop).   I use any low-cost semi flat black for top coat. 

NOTE: (High Heat Flat Black, engine and/or header paint is too dull - yuk)