accept the Linkert Model-74 (X-9) Throttle Disc. Most racers just bore the carb and throttle body "straight through" 1.500" . . . but, if you actually follow the Factory H-D Racing Manual instructions . . . it shows increasing the diameters from each end. On all my previous "bored" DC Linkerts - we just ran the boring bar straight through. This will be my first carburetor modified actually following the race-prep instructions. I also show you the drawing of how-to make your own float bowl spacer (which are cool) . . . H-D recommends you run a 1" aluminum spacer block.
Vintage performance up-grades - nothing better ! Following in the foot-steps of our racing legends, pictured on the walls of our shops and man caves . . . from the books and manuals of our racing libraries . . . only for the true gearhead in all of us . . .
NOTE: It doesn't make a difference which DC Linkert Sportster Carburetor you use for modification. The DC-10(pictured) is one of the later models. (However, the DC-7 was standard on 1966 FLH and is ok to modify for usage on a Sportster). The lower the number, DC-1, DC-3, DC-6, etc. - denotes earlier versions. I suggest running the No.4 Main Jet, which is pretty standard in all DC Linkert models.
Do you plan to rig up some sort of choke assembly for this? I would like to run a modified DC on a panhead, and I'm thinking about trying to put a choke in a velocity stack. I know people also ran Amal ticklers to help with starting.
ReplyDeleteI have the factory air-cleaner (it's for my red '61CH) but, you could make a deal that bolts between the stack and body (kinda like those early S&S L-Series had before they put the choke in it) OR just use a racket ball or tennis ball and flood it a bit - have your buddy hold his hand over it - then she'll pop off once it's warm....
ReplyDeleteWould you say this is really a "race only" mod? Do you think it would compromise low end on the street?
ReplyDeleteNot really race only(just sounds neat)but,they work good on the street. You might lose a bit of off-idle response, but if you machine the body like shown - it should give a bit more velocity which would help - oppose to boring it straight through. The biggest problem will be figuring out what your engine likes when cold starting. If you give me your phone, I could call and discuss? Thanks -Rick
ReplyDeleteHey Noot, I'm slowly building an 84" '68 FLH long bike and didn't want to use an S&S because I don't get great mileage on my other stock shovel so was thinking SU. I got a nice one but as you know they stick out so far, basically right where my knee is. THis got me thinking about a DC, can they be worked for larger motors like mine? I know they came on stock shovels.
ReplyDeleteToo small probably for your 84" - it'd have great torque for no accelerator pump, and they work best with a throttle wire I personally think. - I'd go Super E and turn accelerator down a bit lower, play with the jetting - I actually got better mileage with my Super E (late model) by changing that air screw so my Main came in a little later and ran a 29.5 and a 72 Main over the 28 and 68,70 Mains. I played with that air bleed and let it stay on the 29.5 a bit longer 50-60mph so it wasn't trying to go on the Main at 55. I dig those Es . . . with 84" you could have a bigger Main to get down when you want it - get the most of those inches !
ReplyDeleteCould you shoot me an email at 47kslope@gmail.com? I have a few more questions. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteTHanks, you confirmed what I didn't want to hear! Thoughts on the SU? I got a real nice one recently.
ReplyDeleteSUs are one of the best workin' carbs for pans and shovels - ask any old timer. A little oil in the slide(unless you like it rattlin' away) and away you go, right leg blowin' in the wind. Nothin' better than a polished SU, with a remote bowl - and that beautiful SU air cleaner. So cool Sir Grant of the West Coast Grants . . .
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