1938 EL ( 61 cu. in. )

This build has been a challenge since Randy wanted the engine to retain it's original "crusty" patina.  New on the inside - Old on the outside.  When I first got goin' on it . . . it was hard to hold back, and not detail everything.  Now, it's one of my "most favorite" engines I've ever rebuilt.

- Always squirt extra oil on the gears, etc. before

you button up the tappets . . .

Bead honed the blocks, tappets have new rollers.  I checked the rods for straightness with

my special S&S Check Pin.  Noot had the gears all set-up and shimmed, checked pinion to cam

gear with the .105 pins.  I used the later (large)spacers for the idler gear studs with snap rings.

Cases machined (McFarland), updated races installed, lapped, rollers fitted.

PS.  Always make notes - and SAVE THEM !

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PART 2.

I always check the ring gaps (upper & lower parts of cylinders), fit in piston, etc.

Hastings ring sets are usually spot on . . . but, my ring gap spec. is +.010 to .020, and this one was about .012.  I like it in the middle.  The .013 feeler gauge felt like it was dragging a bit.  If you do need to file your rings, take a little off each end of the ring.  Not all off one end.  The 2nd ring had a dot, dot goes up always, and the Top Ring was square and bare, no bevels.  Install either way up.  WD-40 on rings, oil on skirt, clean bore with brake kleen and coffee filters, low lint paper towels, etc.  3 fingers smear oil on bore, rub it in.  

Follow the book, listen to your elders and use your head - and you'll have the 

best chance of achieving a good result.