Tech Tips: Breaker Points

Personally, here's how I do it - with good results . . .

FIRST:  I make certain point faces are parallel and square to each other - equal distance across from each other.  I bend, pry, tap with hammer & punch, use a needle nose, whatever . . . just get the faces as straight as possible.  If you don't, they are just barely touching at one point - and you may not get a good ground, more arching of spark, more pitting of point's faces, etc . . 

NEXT:  I check my Points Gap on both the "Narrow" and "Wide" lobes.

Magneto Points = .015 to.016 gap (.018 new set)

Cone Points = .020 gap (.022 new set)

If they are a new set of points, I add a couple to compensate for the fiber block wearing.

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NOTE:  If the gaps are different on each lobe - I will "true up" the shaft with a small brass hammer or a punch with tape on the end . . . (see below) Otherwise you have (2)different points gap setting for each cylinder - which is lame.  I think my motors run better with equal point gaps.  

I just lightly tap the shaft opposite side I want it to move.  Most of the time it works.  Sometimes the shaft won't move much.  Sometimes it's off quite a bit.  If I can't get the shaft to move, I'll split the difference from each lobe and set my gap at that . . . kinda in the middle.  Example: .022 and .018 - I'll set it around .019 or .020 - ( a shaft with .005+ run-out needs trued )

Spark Plug Gaps

Magneto = .020-.025

Breaker Points = .025-.035

The more powerful your coil, the more you can open up your plug gap.  Most electronic ignitions can jump a .030 or more . . . really get that flame to travel.  The wider gap, the more your coil will "strain" to jump that gap, possibly damaging a stock coil?  I usually run what the H-D Service Manual recommends.  Check your cone points every 10K miles.  Magneto Points last longer.  I've had the same sets of points in my magnetos for about 10 years now - and they all still look good.

ALWAYS grease your cam lobe (fiber block)

With advance weights:

ALWAYS set your timing with weights in advanced position ! Use a screw driver or needle nose to advance your cam to the stop in the direction it turns when engine is running . . .

 5 ohm coils = Points Ignition

3 ohm coils = Electronic Ignition

(You can run a 3 ohm coil with points, you just risk burning your points a bit faster over time . .

See you on the road !