TECH: Dry Clutch

I've run dry clutches in 4 early Sportsters for many years.  When the fibers stay dry, they work excellent with no drag, no slip, and can handle stroker power.  When wet, they slip, drag, etc. 
Besides new gaskets and seals (all the obvious things) . . . the best way to keep them dry for a few years I've found is:
1. Use 2 cups(or approx. a heavy 1/2 qt.) of oil in primary/transmission.  I lean the bike slightly to the LEFT of center and fill until the oil just starts to run out the oil-level-check-bolt.
2. I use Bel-Ray 85W Gear Saver.  Good for gears, and doesn't seem to get in your plates as bad as thin, hot H-D oil or primary oil.  When it does, your dry plates still kinda work too.
3. PARK YOUR BIKE (especially over long periods more "upright" with a board, etc. under the jiffy stand.  That way your clutch basket cover isn't just sitting in oil at the bottom where the oil can eventually work it's way into your basket.
4. Make sure the (4ea) holes in the back of your basket are clear, so the needle bearing oil can get in - and get out (while it's in motion.
5. I like the Raybestos plates best, but I've run the Vesrah and V-Twin dry plates too.
6. Before installing new dry plates, I use a square file to "deburr" the slots of extra fuzz and fiber so they slide free on the clutch dogs.  If they get a little wet sometime, they're less likely to stick. Wear a mask - don't breathe the dust.
7. Make sure the basket is super clean.  Scrape all the solid, hard oil deposits around the dogs, and clean with brake kleen.  The cleaner and drier the better.