. . . that's fast. Probably one of Harley's best design features. The chain & brake drum stay on, and you hardly get greasy. Like changin' the wheel on your car. The problem is getting the bike in the air. I supposed I could rig up a rear-center-stand, but it might look weird?
I break these things down with irons . . . so I can experience another aspect of motorcycling (other than just pushing a button, or writing a check, or swiping a card).
The 18" Kelsey Hays Steel Sportster rim has served me well on this rigid. They take more abuse on rough roads and stay true. I run 25-32 lbs of pressure and just take the hits. Lower pressures can create too much heat on a hot day.
I knocked off the "spoke type" lead wheel weights (which I prefer over stick-ons). I checked all the spokes and trued it up a touch . . . ready for computer spin balancing. My tube is a 1940s army issue heavy-duty tube for a Harley WLA. It's thick rubber, still pliable, nothing wrong with it. When you blow it up by itself, it's just so true - no bulges, not sucked in spots (you know what I mean?) I really hate to swap it for a Taiwan tube. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
I run the late-model, size large, juice rear brake on this rigid. Original Bendix backing plate, and I try to keep it "all Harley" the best I can. It works very well - and you need some stopping power when it's your only brake. Keep it clean. Keep it serviced. Frame pinstripes cost extra.
Good Work Rick. Way to stay on top of things!
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