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Cubic Inch
Use a magnifier . . .
Big Bore Cylinders
No Problem . . .
Breather Ramp
Remove screen(deburr) and install with Allen set screw through existing hole in breather. For improved engine breathing - Proven in many engines.
Shovelheads !
For friends . . . this shovel handled the heavy throttle hand of Jeff Wright !
Panheads !
This one lives again . . . . Reed's pan snorts like a race horse !
Knuckles !
Are a lot of work . . . . Gordy's knuckle is a smooth - one-kick runner !
SIDE VALVES . . .
45s, 74s or 80s ! Diamond Dave Polgreen's glimmering jeweled flatty !
4 Speeds !
Always rebuildable . . . My jockey-jammin' 4 speed !
Popular Pushrods
Pushrod Adjustments
The Army Bobber AWOL
XLCH Strokers !
Preserve our heritage . . .
Rebuild Vintage !
1952 K
'52K - KH Cams, Mikuni 36, other goodies
4 comments:
My those wheels look skinny......And a question...Hey Noot, have you ever used the extra holes on the right and left of the crank pin hole to line up the flywheels when truing them?? I saw the channel iron jig you use on a previous post.. But often wonder if anyone else on the planet use the "extra holes" when truing the wheels up........
Many of the rotating assemblies these guys bring me have different (mismatched flywheels), so I have them dynamically balanced by a reputable former racer. I wouldn't want to rely on those holes. The H-D flywheel lock tool uses these holes to hole the flywheels. They are used to indicate for specific machining operations. Maybe to get you in the ballpark, but ultimately, you still have to true them in the stand, know where the runout(if any) is in your shafts, etc. to do it correctly. Truing is almost more important than balancing. The "balance" in this case will just make your rotating assembly smoother at a certain rpm. If they are out-of-true, you'll have a shorter life of rollers, bearings, races, and it will buzz your fingers and crack your fenders... I like dynamic(spin balancing) because it balances the entire assembly as a rotating unit(just like when it's in your bike). Static balancing gets each 1/2 true, then technically the whole thing should be true when mated with the opposite flywheel - but factors are left out. When the weight of the pistons gets moving in a direction, and gets pulled back by the rods, and pushed back by combustion fire, there's a lot of shit going on you can't calculate statically on the bench. Like Coca Cola on ice cubes on a hot day . . . Nothing like the real thing.
I meant "hold" the flywheels. It's my blog, and I can't even edit this shit . . .
Thanks Noot... I just use a bar between the holes to move the wheels on the crankpin......While the assembly is in my little lathe (I don't own a truing stand).
With the crankpin nuts just snug, I move the flywheels into alignment with a long 1/2" bar stuck thru a hole in each wheel...I "bump" the bar until the wheels are running true to each other... Then I carefully and slowly snug up the crankpin nuts.
After all that, I use a torque wrench on those same nuts and then recheck run out..
Using a prybar instead of a mallet to get the wheels in alignment makes quick work of getting things to run true......Well, for me anyway... Thanks again..
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