TECH: How to Wrinkle Paint

The key to perfect wrinkle paint is "uniformity" - consistency.  If applied too heavy, it wrinkles and leaves lines, and the wrinkles in the paint are larger in places.  If applied too light(thin paint) it doesn't wrinkle at all, or appears rough.  Temperature of the part(and room temp) is important.  I've found about 60-70 degrees F works best.  It dries a bit slower, and your wrinkle paint job will be more consistent and uniform.  Application is very important.  You don't "recoat" wrinkle paint.  I give it a very light (stick coat) to give the surface some grip - let dry 4-5 mins., then apply a medium/heavy main coat of paint, careful to apply a uniform depth.  You don't want any runs !  I try to apply the paint on the surfaces of the part YOU SEE WHEN IT'S ON THE BIKE in the best way possible.  Cross your fingers. 

Now that the paint has wrinkled and is completely dry, I spray a flat (or semi flat) coat of black over the top to even out any shiny spots, or imperfections.  This is the step that really gives your black wrinkle job the professional appearance over wrinkle alone.  Highlight with chrome, polished or spun aluminum(as above) accessories for contrast.  Chrome socket-head screws with small OD stainless washers to mount the covers. 

PJ-1 Wrinkle Paint is the brand I prefer.  Problem is, it's expensive.  Plus, the tip likes to clog (once you get going, don't stop).   I use any low-cost semi flat black for top coat. 

NOTE: (High Heat Flat Black, engine and/or header paint is too dull - yuk)