'66 Gear Box

Workin' on my friend Eric's (period crusty ironhead resto) 
1. Big Noot got the endplay debacle figured out. 
(a head-scratcher deal, you'd never seen before)
2. Ground the counter thrust washer
with special tool, - now it's spec.
3. Replaced a bad gear (we had one, last nice gear)
& measured race, shaft and rollers.
4. Replaced kicker bushing & Seal.
(I turn seal wrong-side out, bevel the edge and turn
it back to prevent cutting it with the shaft)
5. Kicker shaft took .014 shims, all tight...
it helps keep hub teeth engaged when starting.
6. New push-rod end seal
7. Dustin fixed/welded rear motor mount
8. I replaced and sized new shifter shaft bushings
in the case and gear cover. (gear cover bushing drilled
for grease zerk, without hitting the inside of bushing !
9. New sprocket seal (leave screws a bit loose, center it
with your sprocket, then snug up screws.
10. Countershaft bearing installed correctly
PS. Another helpful hint: I always take apart the Pawl Carrier and inspect the springs.  I bend 'em around, (sometimes they break) and check to see the springs are worn on one side.  If these bust, then it shifts like shit or not at all.  I grease them up, nice and slippery.  I like the factory springs(if you can find them) and the Eastern springs are ok too.  Over & Out.


lucky23design said...

Id love to hear more about the end play debacle!

Noot said...

I believe the case surface where the door contacts was surfaced a bit much at the factory(requiring a thicker door)or really thin thrust washers to set the end play, which they make 'em(low gear thrust washer)+.065(the thinnest) Maybe somebody changed the door along the way, so a guy has to compensate for the distance someplace??? ...and it's good to have a decent thrust washer thickness for both sides of the gear - so it's good now.

Eric Thompson said...

Looking awesome!