Baffle Plate / Glyptal / Case Alignment

Here's an early panhead gear cover that's been repaired.  A common problem - they crack around the timer stud boss.  To weld it correctly, the baffle plate must be removed.  I didn't want to assemble the guy's motor without the plate,(or it would puke massive oil into the primary probably) - so I made a cardboard pattern - and my buddy McFarland whittled me out an aluminum plate, drilled out the old solid rivets, and tapped me some holes for screws.  (The S&S gear cover baffle plates are screwed on and they work...so here goes)

...then I masked and painted everything(sealing up any weld porosity) and made it all look so pretty.
The right case needs an over sized race, since it's all oval, and out-of-round.  I'll bolt the case together and align everything the way I want it.  Then we'll mount on a Bridgeport Mill table with the Left Side up.  He'll indicate in the case race to zero, dead center, and note the coordinates.  Then remove the left case - and indicate the Right case race insert to the same coordinates - and bore it for the perfect press-fit of my new +.016 over stock OD case race.  I have this kid McFarland do it for me- he measures like 50 times - and finally does it - and it works.  Then I'll line lap everything and have a nice straight shot for both flywheel shafts.  Makes a smooth running engine - for long life too.