.004 and .007
I installed the shafts (with a new key in one) and put them in the truing stand using the "special long center" I had made to reach the short sprocket shafts. I checked the run-out of the far edge of the outside face of each flywheel. S&S Cycle likes .007 or less, so I always use that as a guideline. One had +020 and the other +010. If you can visualize this: I take them out and put the end of the shaft (down on a lead plate) with the "high side" down on the plate. I strike the flywheel on the top edge, carefully with a non-marring lead hammer. What I'm attempting to do here is make the shaft more perpendicular to the flywheel. Check run-out again in truing stand. You can adjust your run-out in this fashion correctly. If it doesn't move after a couple strikes I quit. It takes time, but now you can assemble the flywheels and true the crank pin - I believe you will have a smoother, stronger and longer lasting rotating assembly.
NOTE: If it still has too much run-out, I remove the shaft, remove the key and gently lap the shaft to the taper a bit (not too much) - then wipe clean, clean with brake kleen, then reassemble. You have to get this in the .007-.010 range for best result. Then try a different shaft if you can't get it, and make sure the nut face(towards the flywheel) is true, an out-of-true face can kink the shaft too.
Posted by Noot