Sportster Motor Mount Tricks and other goodies . . .

Usually my system is . . . have the lower-end together with cylinders on, then set it in the frame.  This time I left off the cylinders, assembled pistons (so I could better see the spiral keepers were seated).  The motor is lighter and easier to handle.  Big Noot showed me a little trick . . . to snug up the back bolts pretty well, then pry up on the motor a bit (underneath between lower frame and the bottom of the cases) before you snug up the front bolts.  This takes a little stress off the back aluminum mount . . . and it may help keep from cracking it (like they can do) on the left, top side.  Go over all the bolts again - and you've done your best.
If you ever find the front of the engine "off" a bit with the frame, try loosening the bolts(on top) where the mount bolts to the cases behind the back jug.  Kinda settle it into place with no binding, and tighten all your bolts again.  All this thinking might lead to a smoother ride, less cracks, less breakage . . . less aspirin.
Vintage MC Pistons with 10.5:1 compression ratio, offset wrist pins, set up at .0045 clearance
I also changed my cams around - I'll try P Intakes and PB Exhaust.  I want to try and build some
torque.  When checking the breather timing, I noticed it wasn't opening until like 2" ATDC and was still open "on the way up"  That's bad.  The breather hole was lined-right-up with the notch.  Thank You Harley Davidson !  We moved it a tooth, and now I open much sooner and she closes "right at the bottom."  If you know what I'm talkin' about??? More updates later . . .