This build has been a challenge since Randy wanted the engine to retain it's original "crusty" patina. New on the inside - Old on the outside. When I first got goin' on it . . . it was hard to hold back, and not detail everything. Now, it's one of my "most favorite" engines I've ever rebuilt.
- Always squirt extra oil on the gears, etc. before
you button up the tappets . . .
Bead honed the blocks, tappets have new rollers. I checked the rods for straightness with
my special S&S Check Pin. Noot had the gears all set-up and shimmed, checked pinion to cam
gear with the .105 pins. I used the later (large)spacers for the idler gear studs with snap rings.
Cases machined (McFarland), updated races installed, lapped, rollers fitted.
PS. Always make notes - and SAVE THEM !
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PART 2.
I always check the ring gaps (upper & lower parts of cylinders), fit in piston, etc.
Hastings ring sets are usually spot on . . . but, my ring gap spec. is +.010 to .020, and this one was about .012. I like it in the middle. The .013 feeler gauge felt like it was dragging a bit. If you do need to file your rings, take a little off each end of the ring. Not all off one end. The 2nd ring had a dot, dot goes up always, and the Top Ring was square and bare, no bevels. Install either way up. WD-40 on rings, oil on skirt, clean bore with brake kleen and coffee filters, low lint paper towels, etc. 3 fingers smear oil on bore, rub it in.
Follow the book, listen to your elders and use your head - and you'll have the
best chance of achieving a good result.