. . . that's fast. Probably one of Harley's best design features. The chain & brake drum stay on, and you hardly get greasy. Like changin' the wheel on your car. The problem is getting the bike in the air. I supposed I could rig up a rear-center-stand, but it might look weird?
I break these things down with irons . . . so I can experience another aspect of motorcycling (other than just pushing a button, or writing a check, or swiping a card).
The 18" Kelsey Hays Steel Sportster rim has served me well on this rigid. They take more abuse on rough roads and stay true. I run 25-32 lbs of pressure and just take the hits. Lower pressures can create too much heat on a hot day.
I knocked off the "spoke type" lead wheel weights (which I prefer over stick-ons). I checked all the spokes and trued it up a touch . . . ready for computer spin balancing. My tube is a 1940s army issue heavy-duty tube for a Harley WLA. It's thick rubber, still pliable, nothing wrong with it. When you blow it up by itself, it's just so true - no bulges, not sucked in spots (you know what I mean?) I really hate to swap it for a Taiwan tube.
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
I run the late-model, size large, juice rear brake on this rigid. Original Bendix backing plate, and I try to keep it "all Harley" the best I can. It works very well - and you need some stopping power when it's your only brake. Keep it clean. Keep it serviced. Frame pinstripes cost extra.
