All Steel and All Real

 

My friend Jeremy caught a serious hot-rod bug from his dad & grand-dad, and he keeps the tradition alive with all steel Fords & Chevys.  Straight axles, narrow slots . . . and the best part - he knows all the history of his rides and takes that tradition seriously.  Hell, the stories are the best part anyway !  (I know he drives that '57 year round)   See ya "sooner" next time and a rain check on the cold one . . . Respectfully, -Noot Jr.

1975 AMF'r

XLH is now a rolling chassis.  All stock is cock.  Paint by The Rattler . . . shiny & groovy.
Goodyear All-Trac for spittin' dirt . . . 

Beston Grips

About 3 years ago at Davenport,
I bought some NOS Vintage 1" Beston Grips from a Brit who talked funny.  The most I could understand is that the 1" size wasn't popular in the U.K.  "Mate, if yer bars vibrate - these would be ace . . . I wouldn't "nick" you on this haggle ?  Somthin' like that . . .

Swirl Polishing Advantages

Experienced racing engine builders say that swirl polishing the backside of valve heads relieves stress and lowers the chance of valve failure.  They would probably know.  Racers know the most since they have tested their methods, failed many times . . . and usually know what works and what doesn't work.  They spent the money, and us "hot street riders" can reap the benefits of their findings.  That gray line is the lapped valve seat.  Usually intake valves can have a narrower seat width (to get the fuel and air in a bit faster).  Exhaust valves like a wider seat width . . . Why?  The engineers say, since exhaust valves run hotter, the time the valve is closed (touching the seat of the head) all that heat can be transferred from the valve itself, back to the cylinder head - creating a "cooler running" exhaust valve - ensuring a longer life of the valve.  That wide seat carries away the heat.  Swirl polishing improves air flow, and I know the carbon doesn't stick as easy either . . . in my experiences taking apart cylinder heads.

Busy . . and Camera needs batteries . . .

I've been very very busy . . .

Honed lifter blocks (4 ea)

Bored & Honed set of cylinders

Bead blasted & washed cylinder heads

Bought a tire from Universal
Fitted the Orange tank & fender !

Ground (22 ea) valves (yes I did)

Drilled & replaced (4 ea) cam rollers

Honed a XL rod set

Replaced shifter shaft bushing

Replaced kicker shaft bushing

Scraped gaskets
Freshed up my magneto

Bought spokes from Buchannan's

Raked the entire backyard and

took the leaves/sticks to landfill

Took out the trash

Cleaned the litter box

Lifted weights and walked my

route everyday . . .

Line lapped a pinion race
 Trued my '61CH flywheel assembly . . .

Set up bore gauges and measured

about (6)different races
Honed knuckle valve guides

Pressed in (2) more bushings

Assembled tappet blocks in a

1949 panhead motor . . .

Went to bowling alley for an IPA and a Comet Burger !

 It's important to stay busy.  I'm a big advocate for "movement" and to do things, and study new things.  Keeping your mind moving and sharp.  Doing things for people - giving your best and doing some volunteer work of some type.  It's a great feeling for me to see my friends face when they pick up their stuff and notice I've done extra, made it the best I could - then I hear later how good it runs and how much fun they are having . . . it helps them "keep moving" too.

Magneto Tech

I like to take my magnetos into a dark closet(nothing kinky).  You can spin the gear and easily see if spark jumps the springs, and how much spark arcs at the points.  If I get too much arc at the points, I change the condenser first, then clean and file points, then clean everything, change points, etc.  Eventually, I will have no arc at the points - just a good snap at the coil springs.  Magneto points last about 10 times longer than distributor points.  This set has been in my '61CH for over 20 years.  Magnetos are easy on point faces.  The points set just like any set of points(but with a tighter .015 gap) I like the original FM Coils, but the aftermarket coils are ok too.  Make sure your coil ground screws are clean and tight.  Keep the inside of your magneto housing clean.  I remove the coil and clean off the surface of the rotor every few years.  Wipe it out with electrical cleaner and blow dry.  Simple maintenance.
I have 8 magnetos and they all work - and that's 8 batteries I don't need.  I built about all of them from separate parts here and there . . . I use original Fairbanks-Morse parts and Joe Hunt products too.  I like Joe Hunt since you can call and talk to a tech guy, get parts direct - and their stuff is decent quality.  I really like their billet top bearing plate.  If you get one, have them install the top bearing for you.  This plate has a stronger boss and better screws for fastening the condenser, points, etc.  They have good plug wires.  I use Morris Magneto parts too.  The Morris M5 is a great system for shovelheads.  Dave at Morris is always very helpful - and he knows more about magnetos than anybody I know.  Don't let a naysayer stop you from running a magneto on your old bike - once you get it going, and have a basic understanding of how they work, you'll be very happy with one, or two, or . . .

K & K&N & Kung Fu

Celestial Markings

In going through the '61CH motor . . . I noticed these really weird lines in one cylinder.  I've never seen anything quite like this before.  They resemble rays-of-light.  The bore is straight, piston is slightly scored, but this is just weird.  It's a signal, a sign, a language that an engine builder needs to understand.  It probably has something to do with distortion.  I never babied this thing - so it's possible it got a bit hot a time or two . since gettin' your CH "hot" is fun you know . . . Like Competition Hot !

1975 XLH Restoration

My dad purchased a ratted out Sportster at an auction last year . . . and in typical "Noots" style it's being restored (way-over-budget) to our patented 'original custom' condition.  A clean AMF'r . . .

Harley XL Tappet Block Remover

1960 XLH

George Ratliffe - A good wrench and racer.

Struts & XLR Pipes

Bob Spina Nomination

Ed Roth, Pete & Jake . . . & Spina

Just before they hit the road (with California Kid) to OK City

 Tom Kelly, Larry Watson & Bob Spina

Nominate Bob Spina and Tom Kelly for Starbird's Hall of Fame Museum in Oklahoma.  A "Lifetime Achievement" Award for all their work and contributions to the world of custom paint.  Over 50 years of service.  True innovators.

25 Years of Carbon

 

25 years since my CH has been apart.  It's just time to check wear, clearances . . . so far, it's been carbon deposits and clean oil.

Yost Power Tube: S&S Super E

Anyone ever use one of these?

7:00am - Iowa - Gas & Grease

Frosty, wet and cold, slippery concrete, cold fog . . . and I'm out cleaning an ironhead hub with gasoline . . .
Now that's fucking commitment.

Where There's a Whip There's a Way . . .

I've been in the crowd at Faster Pussycat so many times - and each concert was different.  In the land of metal, glam, screamin' guitars and vocals . . . this is one of my all-time faves. 

Jeff Wright's Bike

 Caption:

"Honey, don't forget . . .regular Camels and a Trop-A-Rocka . . . 

and no wheelies ! "

This is Jeff's bike (he told me this is "his bike" and he's keeping it).  Every guy has a bike they should keep, even if you're not sentimental towards such things.  I was excited(and nervous) when he asked me to rebuild the motor.  This engine was originally in the "Red Bike."  I built the transmission too (I guess it leaks, but the next time he pulls it, I'll get it fixed (or slowed down) I mean, even H-D says "seepage" is normal.  In case you didn't know, this motor is a unique one.  It's one of the few manufactured 74 cubic inch with the big-base cylinders.(like 80" cylinders)  I talked to Dave at Morris Magneto and he instructed me to run the Andrews BH grind cam with his M5 Magneto.  I timed it off the back cylinder(as instructed) and I assume it starts and runs good.  Jeff brought me 2 transmissions, and said to "build one good one" out of the two.  If I remember correctly, one tranny had mostly Andrews gears (with FX main drive gear ratio = higher 1st gear for lighter weight motorcycles) but the case itself was in poor condition.  The other trans had a heavy-duty case, with chessy gears.  So, we built one with all the goodies.  I really like this photo by Anna (see COC website for the link to her) . . . and it's a really neat bike - and I plan on this summer racing around Des Moines with Jeff - Bar to Bar (at least once).  Gotta Love it . . .

ICE & ALCOHOL

Magneto Idler Gear

Trying to make this work without the proper idler gear stud . . . 

had to make one.

Sportster Dry Clutch Tips . . .

1. 3/16" from top of spring cup to bottom of spring retainer

is good starting point for adjustment.
Equal distance on every stud.

- Pull Clutch(disengage) and you should be able to rotate 

outer pressure plate with your hand 

(sometimes it's a little hard to) 

but you should still be able to rotate it.  

If not, back off nuts a bit.

2. Use 2 cups or 1/2 quart of oil

3. I like Belray Gear Oil 75W or 85W

4. Keep bike parked up-right to help keep oil

out of clutch basket. (wood under kickstand) when parked

for long periods of time . . .

5. If your oil pump check ball leaks, it will seep into

primary - over filling it . . . need to keep Raybestos
plates dry and free of oil.

6. I pinch off oil feed-line from oil tank when

parked for long periods to eliminate oil filling

lower end and seeping into primary.

Linkert DC - High Performance XLCH

The DC Linkert can be modified for improved mid-range/top end performance by boring the carb body to
accept the Linkert Model-74 (X-9) Throttle Disc.  Most racers just bore the carb and throttle body "straight through" 1.500" . . . but, if you actually follow the Factory H-D Racing Manual instructions . . . it shows increasing the diameters from each end.  On all my previous "bored" DC Linkerts - we just ran the boring bar straight through.  This will be my first carburetor modified actually following the race-prep instructions.  I also show you the drawing of how-to make your own float bowl spacer (which are cool) . . . H-D recommends you run a 1" aluminum spacer block.
Vintage performance up-grades - nothing better !  Following in the foot-steps of our racing legends, pictured on the walls of our shops and man caves . . . from the books and manuals of our racing libraries . . . only for the true gearhead in all of us . . .
NOTE:  It doesn't make a difference which DC Linkert Sportster Carburetor you use for modification.  The DC-10(pictured) is one of the later models.  (However, the DC-7 was standard on 1966 FLH and is ok to modify for usage on a Sportster).  The lower the number, DC-1, DC-3, DC-6, etc. - denotes earlier versions.  I suggest running the No.4 Main Jet, which is pretty standard in all DC Linkert models.

'49 Short Block

A solid model: FL

Panhead Rocker Arm Rebuilding

When your rocker arm shaft is loose in your blocks - My first attempt at fixing this, saves you buying all new rocker blocks (expensive).  This check pin is "stepped" in ascending increments up to .875 diameter max.  Rocker shaft is .874 diameter.  The cast iron base was milled clean on the inside surface, removing(about .0015-.002 of material) just cleaning it up. You only need to remove material from the iron base, not the bronze top plate.  The blocks are bolted together and honed until our check pin just fits into both sides or (.875).  The steps on the pin tell you when you're "gettin' close" to the proper diameter.  Now the bores have a nice cross-hatch, and are round again - returning to factory specs. and clearances.
(PS. I think Hawbaker made the check pin?)