Cool Bike
If you were out on the road, and a kid pulled up on this, all packed . . . with New York license plates (and you're in Colorado) . . . you'd have so much respect for the kid. This Sportster is so cool . . .
Muffler Wanted
Anybody know where I can get (1)ea muffler like this? It has a 1 3/4" inlet. I have one, and I'd like to get another and try them on my bike. Maybe you know the company that made them, or a reference I could call that has lots of chopper parts? I appreciate any efforts. Thanks -Noot
Joe's Stroker 94.1 Cubes . . .
Check rod clearance
Check piston clearance
Check nut clearance
Check rod straightness
Check Timken endplay (changed spacer)
Garage Built.
Check, Check, Check, Check . . .
Viking Chapter AMCA Meet & Swap
I never did sell the gas tank . . .
Lots of really good iron in Minnesota . . . The Raino's '57XL and orange '68 XLCH. A hot-rod early ironhead with S&S L . . . Pans & Knucks . . . all the swap spaces pretty much filled up. Lanterns and your favorite beverage for the evening wind-down. My tent and camp were facing Snelling Avenue, and when the old bikes would leave for the evening, they'd race past on the street - it was really cool seeing all the vintage motorcycles whizz by at speed, shifting and changing lanes. Reminded me of what it was like to ride back then . . . in the past, when motorcycles had the best sound (not just Rhineharts, or sport bike slip-ons) There were CBs, BSAs, Triumphs, Royal Enfields, a pack of RDs . . . all music to my ears. A fun time was had by all.
Minnesota Delivery (with instructions)
I take the passenger seat out and use the seat-mount studs to bolt the motor down. Then I put a couple ratchet straps on it, then finally use the passenger seat belt. That should hold it. So now I can drive down the road lookin' at this beautifully rebuilt "Krusty" knuckle motor sitting next to me. Awesome patina. This particular engine didn't have the tiny "air inlet" holes in the intake cups . . . hmmm? I guess if it over oils the top end, a guy could always add the 1/16"(.040 to .060) holes to aid in suction? Anybody know what I'm talking about? Maybe restrict that upper oil line where it comes from the gear cover? You dig? You there? A guy can move the rocker shafts . . . adjust those? I started with base settings and will inform the owner of these possibilities. Instructions for oil pumping and break-in . . . always included.
A midnite ride for the Gear Jammer . . .
Picks & Slides. We rocked it at The Surf Ballroom with Setzer & Thorogood. If they're in your town, get out and get down. Strut your stuff . . . with a bourbon or Coke. Show gets an A.
Pat is cool . . .
This is Pat. I don't know him, but he's got a really cool cycle. I like the exhaust cut-outs (if that's what they are?) and I like it he does his own wrenchin' . . . Maybe this was Pat's only transportation? I like his seat set-up, and the fork dampener too . . . and the risers & bars . . .
Ace is coming to Clear Lake, Iowa
Ace Frehley rocks . . .
and his guitar solos rule.
He designed a special smokin' humbucker -
AND he signed my original Kiss Alive album.
. . . . so there.
. . . . so there.
No. 59
Bill Scott won the Daytona 100 in 1959.
He recently raced in vintage events at Daytona again,
and plans on runnin' some more !
34891-52
I see why racers use all these clamps . . .
Won't have to worry about the pipes falling off . . .
A week of expanding, cutting, bending, re-expanding, slotting, die grinding, filing, trimming, re-sanding . . . ready for paint. H-D Part No. 34891-52 are the sprocket cover bolts (internally threaded) for attaching the exhaust pipe clamps.
1938 EL ( 61 cu. in. )
This build has been a challenge since Randy wanted the engine to retain it's original "crusty" patina. New on the inside - Old on the outside. When I first got goin' on it . . . it was hard to hold back, and not detail everything. Now, it's one of my "most favorite" engines I've ever rebuilt.
- Always squirt extra oil on the gears, etc. before
you button up the tappets . . .
Bead honed the blocks, tappets have new rollers. I checked the rods for straightness with
my special S&S Check Pin. Noot had the gears all set-up and shimmed, checked pinion to cam
gear with the .105 pins. I used the later (large)spacers for the idler gear studs with snap rings.
Cases machined (McFarland), updated races installed, lapped, rollers fitted.
PS. Always make notes - and SAVE THEM !
_____________________________________________________________________
PART 2.
I always check the ring gaps (upper & lower parts of cylinders), fit in piston, etc.
Hastings ring sets are usually spot on . . . but, my ring gap spec. is +.010 to .020, and this one was about .012. I like it in the middle. The .013 feeler gauge felt like it was dragging a bit. If you do need to file your rings, take a little off each end of the ring. Not all off one end. The 2nd ring had a dot, dot goes up always, and the Top Ring was square and bare, no bevels. Install either way up. WD-40 on rings, oil on skirt, clean bore with brake kleen and coffee filters, low lint paper towels, etc. 3 fingers smear oil on bore, rub it in.
Follow the book, listen to your elders and use your head - and you'll have the
best chance of achieving a good result.
Forever Lasting . . .
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