My very best buddy Morty ("Morty The Official Shop Cat") passed away from natural causes last Sunday, Oct. 4th. Morty was the best pet I ever had, and I documented many things ol' Mort did over the years with the expressions and adventures he did around the garage and shop. This BLOG introduced me to many fellow motorcycle enthusiasts over all the years. I remember trying to figure out how to post photos, type text, etc...and this first photo was my test to see if I could do it. I'd see this big, biker dudes at swap meets and events, and one of the first things they'd ask is..."How's Morty?" It was pretty cool. The blogs are a dying method (almost gone fully actually), but there was a time when it was the hottest and best way to get the word out, meet people, they were just awesome ! Each time I get on here to post, Google makes weird changes, and you gotta learn all this crap again... it's like - Nothin' lasts forever for sure. Makes me sad. Buy hey... I got an Instagram (for short attention spans I call it) - and I still post on that. I'll try to send a post now and then, but it just ain't the same - and I'll miss Morty, and I already miss the blogs - but times change - and we just got to go onward into the future - but never sell those old Harleys and keep the vintage bike spirit alive - and maybe I'll see or hear from you all soon? Thanks for the great times we've had ! -Noot
Got this '67FLH motor about wrapped up. It came in really gross and rusty - but now it's ready for action ! Bone stock - but tight. 1967 was the 2nd year of the shovelhead engine production. I reused and detailed about all the fasteners, except the case bolts nuts and rocker slotted nuts (from Colony).
The 80s rock kept me on task....
NOTE: If you ever need a wheel laced and trued, Nathan is your guy. He specializes in chopper wheels, spools, Sportster wheels of all types, hamburger and half-brake front wheels, super narrow stuff...also he builds (and rebuilds) old Sportster front ends of all types.
AMA, American Motorcycle Association.
This is a 1950.
Special features (different from standard WL/45" engines include:
Sprocket Shaft (special for ball bearing)
Pinion Shaft w/oil groove (special for ball bearing)
Crank Pin (special size for WR rollers)
Drilled Connecting Rods
Special Lightened Flywheels
Special Cams (for WR only)
Special Ball Bearing Idler Gear and Spacer
Special Gear Cover for Ball Bearings and Wico
Ball bearings on #3 and #4 cams(both ends)
Ball bearings on #1 and #2 cams (case end only)
Special Angled Tappet Blocks
Flat Show Angled Tappets
Special Tappet Covers
Right Case (special casting for magneto idler gear stud)
Left and Right Case with special machining for Ball Bearings
Right Case machined and drilled for Wico/Edison Magneto
Special Cast Iron Cylinders with larger cooling fins, larger valves,
smoothed ports, and special valve angles...
Special Pop-Up Pistons (same as K, KH, KR)
Special Pop-Up Pistons (same as K, KH, KR)
Special Valve Springs
Special Cylinder Heads and Combustion Chamber
No Head Gaskets !
...and it all must be hand-fitted, must spin free, no binding with correct race
clearances and tolerances for high speed race situations...
I run a continuous (Russell brand) stainless, braided brake line all the way to a triple junction mounted off my rocker clutch up front. The top outlet of my 3-way junction has the hydraulic brake light switch.(I use that late model little bugger, availaable at any H-D dealership. They run 'em on all the new bikes.(I keep a spare in my tool kit in-case the switch would leak, you'd have no brakes !
The opposite side of the 3-way junction has another braided line to my master cylinder.
This is the larger(later) version of the Harley hydraulic brake drum. Maybe 1968-1972, I think?
The round hook-deal is a bungee hook for when I load it up for travel !
The right case needs an over sized race, since it's all oval, and out-of-round. I'll bolt the case together and align everything the way I want it. Then we'll mount on a Bridgeport Mill table with the Left Side up. He'll indicate in the case race to zero, dead center, and note the coordinates. Then remove the left case - and indicate the Right case race insert to the same coordinates - and bore it for the perfect press-fit of my new +.016 over stock OD case race. I have this kid McFarland do it for me- he measures like 50 times - and finally does it - and it works. Then I'll line lap everything and have a nice straight shot for both flywheel shafts. Makes a smooth running engine - for long life too.