Rich King





I heard he may come "out-of-retirement" (if he's ever really been retired???) and run a few more races in 2016.  King and Hawbaker teamed up for the Kansas Flat Track Series last year and won convincingly.  I watched King race at Des Moines back in the late 70s, and I've been a fan ever since. George Garvis backed him up with Honda power for many years.  Craig Rogers, Sam . . . Bill Werner . . . but, Rich knows how to set up a bike - what works for him . . . and if he's on his game on race day, you about have to be the national champion to have a shot at beating him. 

XLCH Oil Tank Mounting Plates and Bolts

I recently purchased an XLCH Oil Tank(No.25)  My first tank came with my 1961 XLCH, so the cost was included with the purchase price of the motorcycle.  I bought a 2nd tank for my '52K project around the year 1995 (at the Farmington AMCA Swap Meet) for $75.00, and I remember the guy didn't really want to sell it (I had offered $50).  I bought my 3rd tank(for the Iron XR project) in Florida for $75.00 and ended up with about $175.00 in it.  I just bought my 4th tank in a 'round about way, magneto parts trade and cash . . . and I'll have about $300.00 in this thing, and I don't even have it yet.  Prices have gone way-up on these things.  They are golden all of a sudden.  H-D manufactured 3 different XLCH versions, and this is the First Version -52 part number.  There's a -52A and a -52B also.  Now that you know the story of my oil tanks, I'd like to tell you my real reason for this post.

The price a person pays for vintage parts, or things you want, is a funny thing to me.  If you really want it, you'll do anything to get it.  Sell stuff.  Work overtime.  Trade, Sacrifice, Loans, Etc . . . or if you have the skills - You'll make the part.  I've made a lot of little parts, since I didn't always have money.  As a guy gets older, more financially secure and possibly (and most likely) more lazy . . . it's easy to just pay the extra and BUY IT NOW.  Why go though all the fuss?  Just buy it.  That's what I've done here, and I feel kinda like a wanna-be fake bike builder.  I feel I didn't wait or sacrifice enough to get this.  Just got it too easy.  I don't know why, but I'm anxiously waiting for this thing to arrive, and hoping I don't have to do too much work to make it correct (since it's rusty, dented, and needs the chrome stripped), but I may feel better about it . . . if I have to work to make it right, other than just buying a perfect, whatever I want. 

I need No.29 and No.31 too.  These parts are special mounting plates with bevels, countersinking, and special bolts with special heads and diameters. Should I make them?  Get some steel?  Take the time . . . but I see this guy on the internet has beautifully made plates and bolt kits, Parkerized, ready to go for $49.99 + Shipping.  BUY IT NOW ?


 These things really are beautiful !
(Tank No. 3)


Travelin'

This thing really ain't that bad to ride long distances.  You get a little sore (like any long bike trip) . . . but, it's kinda relaxing just buzzin' along at 65mph and stopping every 150 miles for fuel . .  and maybe a cookie? Maybe some water?  Maybe a beer?  Maybe not.

KH Flywheels

How do you know?
They have a -54 Part Number
The crank pin nut is up higher . . .
You can run them in your ironhead and make it a "stroker", but you have to install the later (XL) Sportster sprocket shaft, and to do that, you must cut off a flange on the left flywheel, or your flywheels will be too wide and won't fit in the cases . . . or something like that ? 

Just hangin' out . . . doin' stuff . . .





Making Donuts



Kurp has a cracked counter-shaft bearing boss.  McFarland spun me out another aluminum ring to fit . . . and I'll have Pat Lehmann weld it up.  It's a decent way to fix these, and save blowin' your corner someday.  He can't run a speedo no more . . . but, Josh can just stand on his pegs and lean over to the guy beside him.

Bead Blasting

I go to my blasters about once-a-week . . . Sometimes,  I forget to tell him something before he starts blasting.  I said, "Hey, how do I get your attention after you start blasting?"  He said, "Well, you don't."

That "pile of snow" behind him, ain't snow - it's the largest pile of glass bead I've ever seen !

Southwest Run . . .



 I might run my '64 Sportster through Kansas, Oklahoma, New Mexico and Arizona this summer???  I don't know, it's a long ways.  3000+ miles in one week.  I like these Raybestos plates (less rotation weight) . . . just keep 'em dry and they work so nice.  No slip and No drag.  I got this big 23T hoop for the front.  I ran this big gear one year, and it worked - but my motor is kinda soft with it.  Lugging your motor for long periods is a good way to get it hot . . . and Arizona is already hot !   Ironheads like a little bit o' revs . . .

Freezing Cold Solvent and Orange Goo



We know the temperature water freezes at . . . When does Safety Kleen solvent freeze?  It must be way down there?  It just burns your hands.  I don't like blowing off parts inside, since it flies all over everything.  I have a "special stand" for blowing off parts.  This job sucks.  Check the casting date code on this one.  Got to love that old, Orange Perma goo . . . I like the H-D Case Sealer - Gray (it's a nice gray color) available from your Harley-Davidson dealer.  Let it tack up for a few, assemble cases, let tack up a few more minutes, and it wipes clean and looks correct.  Comes as a tube in a box. Part No. 99650-02

Speaking of Parker . . .


Posters look better framed (then stapled)
The old Camel Pro Parker #11 . . . kinda rare.

Scott Parker

I'd never seen the photo before.  He must be about 15 or 16 here?  Pretty damn good already with a matching suit and helmet.  Already decided in his head what he wanted to do . . . go out and win some races and be a professional motorcycle flat track racer.  Do this instead of school.  He wants that Pro License. Go race at all the tracks - the entire circuit.  Go to California and race.  It's only the beginning, he just doesn't know it yet.  Go Parker Go.  He's goin' around this track so fast, he's gonna put this thing in the Main.  If the motor holds up, if she don't break . . . he's probably gonna win it . . .

I can just hear the people in the grandstands talkin' " . . . that Parker kid is lookin' good today." 

I've been saving this picture . . .

This bike is rad.  I like it.  I might change a couple things(just personal preferences), but this builder did a great job.  1938 ULH - 80 cu. in.

Toby's Tired Twin

Cam roller had failed (ate the cam)
Upon further engine dis-assembly and inspection:
Broken left side bearing cage
(lucky that didn't 'cause some serious harm)
The bearing spacer wasn't between the cages.
Head bolts weren't real tight . . .
You could see where the head gasket was ready to leak or blow.
Crank Pin nuts weren't very tight either . . .
Rods kinda loose too . . .
Low compression pistons with stock cam wasn't really takin' advantage of those STD heads . . .
but, I'll see what he wants to do ?  
Build a solid, reliable engine.


Roberts, Goss, Jones & Pooh Bear


1969 XLCH Engine

Completely rebuilt top to bottom.  New cylinders & pistons (std. bore).  P-Cams.  Hot Spark Magneto included(it has about the best chrome I've ever seen on a magneto, needs a lock or custom plug) This thing is a fresh, Noot's built, complete.  $2500 or offers?  Includes: Complete clutch set-up(not shown) and an aftermarket, chrome primary cover (that round, chrome steel Paughco one) My dad is fussy. New bushings, bolts, races lapped, new rollers and seals, tight transmission - Chrome rockers and gear cover have that "character" weather'd chrome, looks good.  New kicker cover. 1968s and '69s were the fast ones with factory complete set of P Grind Cams and Tillotson Carb . . .
Hold On - Ready to fly !  
Serial numbers checked out clean (no title)
Matching cases & belly numbers.
Call 641-228-6038 and ask for Noot.
POSSIBLE DELIVERY TO MAMA TRIED SHOW








Gentle Cycle

Buell heads . . . stripped, blasted, washed, rinsed . . . blow dried.  Ready for measurements.

Morty's Perch


Previously . . . Morty would roll or dig in the snow until he had a bare piece of concrete to sit.  I made him up this little carpet perch . . . and of coarse, he's really likes it.   Mort's been an outside cat for 15 years now, and still catches birds, and chases off other cats.  But, he's like buddies with the squirrels now ?  Sometimes this same squirrel and Morty sit within a couple feet of each other.  Mort must think he's cool - so I won't harass you?  He likes this 15-20 degree weather better than below zero.  When it's too cold, and I open his cat door . . . he makes this little growling sound - in disgust.

1918 Harley-Davidson TECH:

23985-18
The (-18) designates the first model year this part was utilized on a 
Harley-Davidson motorcycle . . .
If H-D made a change to this part after a few years . . . they may add a letter(A) to the end of the part number to indicate a change in the part.
Example: 23985-18A
If another change was made, they may add a (B)or(C)
Example 23985-18B  or maybe 23985-18C
___________________
Many times, you can almost determine what model the part is for via part number.  The first year of the particular model is the end number of the part number.  This is a good thing to know when digging through swap meet NOS parts in NOS packages . . . This ain't written in stone by any means . . . and engine parts (especially things like keys above) are utilized on new 2016 models.  The same part used in the motor all those years.  It gives you a good idea what part you have, for what model. The 23985- of the part number also falls into it's own, special category . . . and it has taken me years to figure this out, which you'll just have to find out for yourself - I ain't got that much time to explain.
WL Parts: -36, -41, -46
K Model Parts:  -52, -54, -55, -56
Ironhead Sportster Parts -52, -54, -56, -57, -58, -71, -72
Panhead Parts -48, -49, -57, -58, -65
Knucklehead Parts -36, -41, -46, -47
Shovelhead Parts -66, -68, -70, -75, -79
FXR Parts -82, -83, -84, -86, -89, -92

Crossed the Tee's - Dotted the Eyes


I ended up with 0 on sprocket shaft, and a heavy half on pinion.
Trued up rod races a touch.
Crank pin was 1.2495(a little big)
Wire brushed the rust off.
Trued 1/2s
Pressed bushings in correctly . . .
They used kinda heavy grease on rollers,
don't know if it was oil soluble??
(whoever redid these previously did a pretty
good job, they knew motors) 
Just made good a little better . . .

RACE SHIT

This will be a new experience . . . learning the ways of the factory race department.  They look about the same from the outside . . . but, are quite different on the inside.

McFarland's "Benchport" Mill




This thing is so sweet.  Like a mouse machine shop.  He's made every single piece on this, from ball ends, threaded parts, etc.  It looks cool next to the mini roller cabinet.  That Kurt vise !

EL = 61 cu. in.


Dave & Paul came down and picked up a fresh lower end.  They tried "parkerized cylinders" on this one.  Kinda neat, but they may need a spray of oil here and there ?  Updated race with Colony seal.

1948 Motor


All parts blasted and washed.
Rod races replaced and surface ground
Races honed (rough to finish)
Bore gauges set-up
Wrist pin bushings replaced(Kibblewhite)
Reamed & Fine Honed
(now a light press at 70 degrees)
Shafts checked for run-out (centers checked)
Flywheels blasted, washed and shafts trued with each side
Cylinders turned (turned base and head gasket surface
with live center) Fire Ring height checked
Cylinders bored and finish honed
(painted H-D Hi-Heat)
Crank Pin measures a bit big @ 1.250
(should be 1.249)